• Joanne Klepal

Down Under: Uluru – Ayers Rock

Now that I’ve passed through the MacDonnell Ranges and Mereenie Loop, fully covered in red dust, it’s time to continue toward Uluru.

Kings Canyon

A relatively short drive after the Mereenie Loop is a drive through Watarrka National Park and Kings Canyon and I decided to have just a quick stop at Kings Canyon.

Kings Canyon

 

Kings Canyon is a valley carved by Kings Creek and has 300 meter [984 feet] high cliffs. It’s composed of Mereenie and Carmichael sandstones both deposited over 400 and 440 million years ago, respectively.

There are a few different walks available here. The two most popular are a walk along the base and a rim walk which can take four to five hours. There is an additional walk [Giles] which is 22 miles over a couple of days.

 

Given the time of day, temperature, what else I wanted to accomplish, and the fact this wasn’t on my ‘must do’ list, I decided to take the base walk, and lo and behold, part of the way through, it was closed without prior notice.

Here is a really interesting information sheet about Kings Canyon geology. Click here or copy and paste this URL into your browser:  https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0016/442015/watarrka-geology-kings-canyon.pdf.

Kings Creek is a special place for the Luritja Aboriginal custodians of Watarraka. It’s known as Watarraka Karru, ‘creek’, and a ceremony place on a native dreaming track. In the Dreaming, native cat men, called kuningka, travelled along the creek from the Southwest, and had important ceremonies at the foot of the waterfall.

Karrake

My goal for the day was to make it to an aboriginal tour, Karrake, which was recommended in a conversation while chatting with other travelers. It’s the first authentic and not too commercialized aboriginal tour I’ve seen so far.

Karakke turn off

 

As I continue my drive, I nearly missed the turn off and just made it for the last tour of the day. Actually, I wouldn’t say it was a tour, more of an hour long educational session.

It’s run by an aboriginal family who live in a nearby community, also called an ‘outstation’, called Wanmarra with a population of under 20.

Their aim is to preserve their Southern Arrente language, Luritja and Pertame, and culture by educating others.

Karrake, in the Arrente language, is the name of the western Bowerbird.

The session included information on the tools and techniques used by the men for hunting, like the spear, shield, and boomerang. Did you know*:

  1. The largest boomerang was a little bit over 259 cm long [more than 8 feet].

  2. The longest time in the air for a boomerang is over 2 minutues.

  3. The oldest boomerang was found in Olazowa Cave in Poland. Made out of a Mammoth tusk, it is has been found to be about 30,000 years old.

*https://aboringinalweapons56.weebly.com/fun-facts.html

The tour also demonstrated how the women used to gather food, how bush medicine was found and used, how women used the stones for grinding, how color was made from natural resources, how paintings were made, and some meanings of the designs you see in aboriginal paintings.

Various gatherings women would collect for food

 

tools got hunting

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also learned about the witchetty grub, and had an opportunity to taste it. Witchetty grub has historically been an important part of the Aboriginal diet, high in protein. It is a large, white wood-eating larvae of several moths which feed on the witchetty bush.

witchetty grub

 

witchetty grub being cooked, the taste is better than you’d imagine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting to note, that not only here, but traditionally, Aboriginals will not share all of their information, history, songlines, to outsiders, and even within their own society, it can take years for elders to share.

colors for artwork

 

demonstration of artwork

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After leaving Karreke I realized there wasn’t enough time before sunset to make it to Uluru, so I drove half of the remaining distance and the other half the next morning.

Uluru

As you can imagine the views leading up to and around Uluru are stunning. What I didn’t know, is there is another formation called Kata Tjuta in the same vicinity and even more beautiful in my opinion. As I look around this flat, barren, vast area, I can’t help to wonder how these formations came to be in the middle of nowhere.

Uluru coming into view

 

Below, I’ve included an article I found on sacredsites.com which provides a bit of history including insight into Dreamtime and Songlines. It’s a good read. I’ve incorporated some of my photos throughout the text and took the liberty to space out the paragraphs for an easier read here [text unedited].

…Perhaps the oldest form of sacred geography, and one that has its genesis in mythology, is that of the aborigines of Australia. According to Aboriginal legends, in the mythic period of the beginning of the world known as Alcheringa – the Dreamtime – ancestral beings in the form of totemic animals and humans emerged from the interior of the Earth and began to wander over the land. As these Dreamtime ancestors roamed the Earth they created features of the landscape through such everyday actions as birth, play, singing, fishing, hunting, marriage, and death.

Views around Uluru – Aboriginal writings

 

At the end of the Dreamtime, these features hardened into stone, and the bodies of the ancestors turned into hills, boulders, caves, lakes, and other distinctive landforms.

These places, such as Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas Mountains) became sacred sites. The paths the totemic ancestors had trod across the landscape became known as Dreaming Tracks, or Songlines, and they connected the sacred places of power.

The mythological wanderings of the ancestors thus gave to the aborigines a sacred geography, a pilgrimage tradition, and a nomadic way of life. For more than forty thousand years – making it the oldest continuing culture in the world – the Aborigines followed the Dreaming tracks of their ancestors.

Views around Uluru

 

During the course of the yearly cycle various Aboriginal tribes would make journeys, called walkabouts, along the songlines of various totemic spirits, returning year after year to the same traditional routes.

As people trod these ancient pilgrimage routes they sang songs that told the myths of the Dreamtime and gave travel directions across the vast deserts to other sacred places along the songlines.

 

Views around Uluru

 

At the totemic sacred sites, where dwelt the mythical beings of the Dreamtime, the aborigines performed various rituals to invoke the kurunba, or spirit power of the place. This power could be used for the benefit of the tribe, the totemic spirits of the tribe, and the health of the surrounding lands.

For the aborigines, walkabouts along the songlines of their sacred geography were a way to support and regenerate the spirits of the living Earth, and also a way to experience a living memory of their ancestral Dreamtime heritage.

 

Views around Uluru

 

Located in the center of Australia, the massive rock formations of Uluru (Ayers Rock) and Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) are the most prominent and well known sacred sites of the Aboriginal people. Rising 346 meters high, with a circumference of 9.4 kilometers and covering an area of 3.33 square kilometers, Uluru is the single largest rock outcropping all of Australia.

Uluru is often referred to as a monolith, and for many years was listed in record books as the world’s largest monolith. That description, however, is inaccurate, as Uluru is part of a much larger underground rock formation which includes Kata Tjuta.

Views around Uluru

 

The world’s largest monolith is actually Burringurrah (Mt Augustus) in Western Australia, which is more than 2.5 times the size of Uluru, stands 858 metres above the ground and covers and area of 48 square kilometers.

In various tourist guidebooks it is said that 2/3 of Ayers Rock is beneath the surrounding land but this is not the case according to the science of geology, which explains that Uluru is only the exposed tip of a much greater mass of rock extending far below the surrounding plain as an integral part of the earth’s crust.

Separated from one another by approximately 50 kilometers, Uluru and Kata Tjuta are situated along a straight line passing onto another holy peak known as Mount Conner.

Views around Uluru

 

Geologists disagree about the origins of Uluru and Kata Tjuta. The most widely held theory is that both rocks are the remnants of a vast sedimentary bed laid down some 600 million years ago.

Over eons of time the bed was raised and folded by movements of the earth’s crust, formed into a mountain range, and then slowly eroded leaving the towering rocks behind.

 

Views around Uluru – Aboriginal writings

 

The sandstone rock of Uluru is actually gray but is covered with a distinctive red iron oxide coating, while the thirty-six domes of Kata Tjuta are a harder type of granite composed of quartz and feldspar.

The origins of the cave-like depressions on both outcroppings, especially those of Uluru, are the subject of debate among geologists but the most commonly held view is that the rock surfaces had been partly eroded and enlarged to form the depressions.

The beginning of Aboriginal settlement in the Uluru region has not been determined, but archaeological findings to the east and west indicate a date more than 10,000 years ago, though some scholars estimate that human settlement in the region may actually date to 22,000 years ago. According to Aboriginal myths, Uluru and Kata Tjuta provide physical evidence of feats performed during the Dreamtime creation period.

people climbing Uluru against recommendation not to

 

The aboriginal tribe of Anangu are the direct descendants of these beings and are responsible for the protection and appropriate management of these ancestral lands. The knowledge necessary to fulfill these responsibilities has been passed down from generation to generation.

To the Pitjantjatjara, Yankunytjatjara and Anangu tribes Uluru represents the living core of their belief. No other place in Australia is so rich in mythology, song-lines and stories, or so associated with events from the Alcheringa or Dreaming.

In the language of the local Aborigines. ‘Uluru’ is simply a local family name that is applied to both the rock and the waterhole on top of the rock. The thirty-six rounded rocks of Kata Tjuta (meaning ‘Many Headed Mountain’), are located in the same National Park as Uluru and the tallest rock, Mt. Olga at 546 meters is about 200 meters higher than Uluru. Kata Tjuta is much less visited by tourists that Uluru and therefore has a more peaceful feeling.

Sunrise Uluru

 

By Aboriginal tradition only certain elderly males may climb the rock but despite this tradition the Australian government allows tourists to make the climb using a metal chain installed in 1964.

Over the years there have been at least forty deaths, mainly due to heart failure while climbing Uluru, and several people have plumetted to their death while climbing.

The Anangu tribe also request that visitors do not photograph certain sections of Uluru, mostly gender-related sacred places, for reasons related to traditional beliefs. This photographic ban is intended to prevent Anangu Aborigines from inadvertently violating this taboo by encountering photographs of the forbidden sites.

Kata Tjuta from a distance; sunrise

 

The first sighting of Kata Tjuta by a European was in July of 1872, when Ernest Giles was exploring the country some 100 kilometers to the northeast. Giles progress towards Kata Tjuta was barred by a large lake.

He later named the lake and the Kata Tjuta rocks after the then King and Queen of Spain: Amadeus and Olga. Giles returned to explore the area again in 1873 but was beaten to Uluru by William Gosse who sighted the monolith on July 19 and named it after the Chief Secretary of South Australia, Sir Henry Ayers.

Giles also was the first European to climb the rock which he did accompanied by an Afghan camel driver.

The inhospitable nature of the terrain ensured that few whites were to venture into the region. Farmers were defeated by the lack of water and the only whites to pass through the area were trappers, miners and the occasional missionary.

The area was declared an Aboriginal Reserve in 1920 and this existed until the 1940s when road access, the possibility of gold in the area, and the tourist potential of Uluru, showed how fragile the original reserve had been.

Kata Tjuta from a distance

 

Ayers Rock was created a national park in 1950 and in 1958 was combined with the Olgas to form the Ayers Rock National Park.

In 1959 a motel lease was granted near the rock and soon after an airstrip was built.

By the 1970s, Ayers Rock and Mount Olga had become the most famous stop on the outback tourist circuit.

In 1976 the Commonwealth Government set up the lease at Yulara (a resort complex and service village located 20 km from the base of Uluru) and in 1983 the old tourist facilities near the rock were closed down.

 

Views around Kata Tjuta

 

In 1985 the title to Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park was returned to the local Pitjantjatjara Aborigines who, in turn, granted the Australian National Parks and Wildlife Service a 99 year lease on the park.

Today the Park is jointly managed under direction of a Board of Management that includes a majority of Anangu traditional owners.

The Aboriginal community of Mutitjulu is near the western end of Uluru.

In 1995, in acknowledgement of Anangu ownership and their relationship with the area, the name of the park was changed from Ayers Rock-Mount Olga to Uluru-Kata Tjuta, its traditional name. Uluru is listed as a World Heritage Area for its natural and man-made attributes.

        From <https://sacredsites.com/oceania/australia/uluru_ayers_rock.html>

 

Uluru was indeed a spectacular experience, and I felt more of a connection with Kata Tjuta. If you have a desire to see them as the sunrises or sets, it’s highly recommended to go early if you’d like to get a good spot for photos without the crowd being in your background or forefront.

Views around Kata Tjuta

 

Views around Kata Tjuta

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My last morning I enjoyed a beautiful sunrise as I began to make my way back to Alice Springs, which I will cover during my next post.

Sunrise as I hit the road back toward Alice Springs

 

 

If you are interested to learn more about Aboriginal history, here are some books which I’ve enjoyed reading:

  1. The Last of the Nomads, by W.J. Peasly

  2. White Spirit, by Lance & James Morcan

  3. Thirty Years Among the Blacks of Australia, by William T. Pyke

  4. The Songlines, by Bruce Chatwin

  5. An Introduction to Dreamtime, by R. Lewis

  6. Walkabout Dreaming: Aboriginal Australia: a short introduction, Michael Mardel

 

Love & light,

Joanne

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Uluru:

http://uluru-australia.com/about-uluru/uluru-facts/

http://uluru-australia.com/about-uluru/

http://uluru-australia.com/about-uluru/uluru-and-aboriginal-culture/

http://redcentre.com.au/about-the-red-centre/uluru-in-aboriginal-culture/

https://sacredsites.com/oceania/australia/uluru_ayers_rock.html   ***********

Red Canyon

https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/200054/watarrka-national-park-fact-sheet-and-map.pdf

https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0015/442014/watarrka-early-pioneer.pdf

https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0016/442015/watarrka-geology-kings-canyon.pdf

https://www.australia.com/en-us/places/alice-springs-and-surrounds/guide-to-kings-canyon.html

Aboriginal & Other

http://www.birdlife.org.au/bird-profile/western-bowerbird

https://www.australias.guide/nt/attraction-tour/karrke-aboriginal-cultural-experience/

https://northernterritory.com/tours/karrke-aboriginal-cultural-experience

https://www.karrke.com.au/

http://www.austhrutime.com/weapons.htm

http://www.janesoceania.com/australia_aboriginal_carvedweapons_utensils/index1.htm

https://aboringinalweapons56.weebly.com/fun-facts.html

https://www.mbantua.com.au/aboriginal-weapons/

Throwing Boomerangs with Aborigines

https://www.survivalinternational.org/tribes/aboriginals

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Witchetty_grub

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